Engines
Saildrives
Engine Controls
It is always easier to adjust the engine controls at the helm station so that when you push the gear lever forward, the boat moves forward not backward. And, when you move the throttle forward, the engine goes faster.
If you use our single lever control, this is adjustable at installation to work on either side of the cockpit and provide these results. If however, you are using controls on a steering (pedastal) binnacle. Only some of the better binnacle controls are reversable. Here we can help by providing a horizontal or vertical cable for the gear change and a reversing mechanism for the engine. See attached photo examples (brackets vary depending on engine model).
Vertical Bracket
On this transmission when the cable pulls the gear, you are in forward
Horizontal Bracket
On the Horizontal cable bracket inlet, the gear lever is adjusted so when the cable pushes you have engaged forward.
Single Lever Control
Mini Reversing Throttle
Used when throttle cable from the helm needs to push to make the engine go fast instead of pull (different options for different engines).
05 Reverse Throttle
On the Beta 30/35/38 engines, allows acceleration with a push cable action.
S3 Push Throttle
On the Beta 43/50/60 engines. This is the standard throttle position. Pull for fast.
S3 Push Throttle
On the Beta 43/50/60 engines. Optional throttle cable position. Push for fast.
Hot Water Heater System
If you are going to fit a hot water heater (calorifier) and let the coolant from the closed circuit of the engine heat the water for you, It is essential to get the plumbing correct so that you don’t have an overheat problem with your engine. Keep the supply and return lines between the engine and hot water heater as short as possible and avoid any big loops or dips in the hose. Remember that you fill the coolant at the cap that is on top of the manifold that is on the engine. This must be the highest point of the cooling system because you cannot pour water uphill. If the shape of the boat forces you to mount the hot water heater above the engine, then you need to follow the drawing (link below) to ensure that your cooling system works correctly.
Exhausts
Below is a typical sailboat exhaust installation. The waterlock silencer (muffler) is the collection point for water in the exhaust system when you shut the engine down, and as such needs to be the lowest part of the exhaust system. You need a drop of about 9” from the exit of the exhaust elbow (X on the drawing below) to the inlet of the waterlock muffler. If you are unable to accomplish this then we suggest using a high rise exhaust elbow which will raise point x up by the required amount.
If you are using a plastic waterlock muffler or a fiberglass one, then we suggest a minimum of 12” length of hose between the exit of the exhaust elbow and the entry point of the waterlift muffler. This allows enough time for the water in the exhaust system to cool the gases down so you do not have any muffler problems.
- Note 1: Siphon break here for engines installed near or below water line.
- Note 2: Loop in exhaust hose should rise approximately 18” above waterline.
Anti Syphon Valve (Vented Loop) for 7/8” & 1” Hose
Highrise Extension Elbow
Cross Over Elbow
6″ & 8″ High Rise
Here are pictures of our waterlock mufflers we carry in stock.
Base Width: 5.5”
Base Length: 12.75”
Muffler Height*: 7.5”
*Excl. Outlet Connection
For use on engines up to Beta 38 only. Other mufflers are available and very often, installers will choose one to fit in the space over the manufacturer. As long as the muffler has the adequate capacity to protect the engine while sailing, you would be fine.
Propellers
In general, engines turn the propeller and the propeller drives the boat. To get the best performance from your engine, the propeller must be properly matched to the engine and transmission and the boat.Good water flow to the propeller is essential to getting good performance from it. As a rule, a larger slower turning propeller is much more efficient than a small faster turning one, especially on a vessel where the propeller is in an aperture. On boats with the prop in a cut out (or aperture) one must be careful to have enough “tip” clearance. See the drawing, (Y) needs to be between 10 and 15% of the prop diameter to avoid noise and vibration through the vessel structure.
Three blade propellers definitely work better on full keel boats. In theory a two blade propeller will provide the same boat speed but because there is so much slip, powering away is often painfully slow. Fin keel boats behave differently and because the propeller is always in the water flow, a 2 blade propeller often gets used to good effect.
To reduce drag when sailing, feathering propellers have become much more popular whereas folding propellers still work well on high performance racing boats.
Beta Marine US has made arrangements with some of the better propeller suppliers in the industry. As a Beta Marine customer, you are eligible for some exclusive discounts on your propeller purchase.